My friend, Mojzes Drago, was giving me a one-day tour of some of his favourite sites near Zagreb. On our way to the next place on the list we spotted a sign pointing off to "Lobor" and he suddenly remembered having heard of some excavations there. A young schoolgirl was walking along the road and he stopped and asked directions from her, which she gave clearly, politely and without the least hesitation. I was most impressed: not bad for a twelve-year old and better than any I've found here in Britain!
To my annoyance, when we got up to the church the remains were hidden beneath a huge slab of concrete. Apparently the government is building a museum over the baptistry which will have an underground entrance so that the church is not disturbed!
And that will be a grievous loss, because the priest who had kindly taken us up there allowed us to visit the church - whose walls were covered with the most amazing frescoes dating back to the 13th century. Never mind the ruins, the church should be on the list of sites to be visited and sights to be seen by every visitor to Croatia. (By the looks of it, the church could do with offerings or ticket sales from visitors, as it appears to be sorely in need of rennovation.)