Charon and Corinium

This grassy hollow is all that remains of Cirencester's amphitheatre, once the largest in Britain

The grassy green banks surrounding a grassy green oval give no hint of the horrors that once took place here, as thousands screamed with joy as men fought to the death for their entertainment. But if they weren't quite dead, then a strolling Charon gave them the quietus with a sharp rap on the head from a hammer that made absolutely certain that no one could dispute who won and who lost.

Mind you, I was extremely lucky to find this amphitheatre, as the Cirencester tourist board is no help at all, with signs pointing several ways at once to a museum that was locked and barred. I just happened to notice the amphitheatre marked on a street map and, being blessed with a good sense of direction, managed to find it. Only on the last corner was there a sign pointing to it - for which, I suppose, we must be grateful. If the tourist board had anything to do with it the sign would have been pointing up at the sky or back the way I had come.