Is it Wyoming that used to feature in the Marlborough cigarette ads, in the days when cigarettes were allowed to advertise? Wide open spaces, a clean-shaven cowboy sitting his horse while cattle grazed in the distance, casually rolling a cigarette (in between paroxysms of wheezing and coughing, no doubt). As far as we were concerned, the wonderful experience of Wyoming was as fraudulent as the health claims by Marlborough!

We drove down to West Yellowstone and then turned left through falling snow which cut out everything more than a dozen feet away. After two miles our phone beeped and a message appeared: "Welcome to Wyoming." We drove twelve miles north to the Norris Basin, walked around the Porcelain Pools, then headed 32 miles south to Old Faithful. By then the snow had stopped and as we drove out we could see the thick forest on either side - and that was Wyoming.

So if you want encomiums on the wide open space, the rugged wheezing cowboys or the haunted-looking cattle, you'll have to go elsewhere, I'm afraid.

Oh, and we also saw a bear as it disappeared behind a tree. As it didn't appear again the other side, we suspect that it was abducted by aliens. Conspiracy Theories rule, OK!