Mwnt church with its mortuary.

You won't find the tiny hamlet of Mwnt on many maps, so if you are looking, it's just to the north of Cardigan on a south-facing notch in the coast. The area is owned by the National Trust, who have done much to keep it unspoiled.

We came across it because my wife wanted to see dolphins and it was one of the places that came up on an internet search. We were well rewarded as we sat on a grassy headland and looked across the bay to where dolphins were leaping as they hunted for food on the incoming tide.

To our surprise, Mwnt turned out to have a lovely little pilgrim church, one of the stopping places on the route to Ynys Ynlli or Bardsey Island. Even more surprising, a lot of those pilgrims were already dead and Mwnt catered for them just as much as it did for the living.

We stayed on a beautiful campsite down by the shore where the price was reasonable, the facilities adequate and the owner friendly. What more can you ask?